Over the last few training sessions Essel has hosted, I have been asked about solar lentigos or “Age spots”. Solar Lentigos are small flat dark areas of skin. They appear typically on Sun exposed areas in patients over the age of 50, however, they can appear in younger patients who have had excessive sun exposure. Age spots affect all skin types, however, they are more common in skin type I, II, III. Unlike Ephelides Age Spots do not fade once the skin is not exposed to Sun.
Common characteristics of Age spots, flat, oval areas of hyperpigmentation, they generally group together making their appearance more pronounced.
Solar Lentigos is composed of two different pigments namely * Melanin, the typical pigment in the skin *lipofusin, an uncommon pigment. A yellow-brown pigment composed of oxidized proteins and lipids, which accumulate in the cell’s cytoplasm with aging.
This is one of the reasons age spots are so difficult to treat as most treatment plans or products focus only on the melanin accumulation.
When targeting the lipofusin pigment it is essential to understand that the pigment is a toxin build-up. DNA EPINEW SKIN TONE CORRECTOR incorporates active plant extracts including FERULIC ACID ( an antioxidant that also boosts other antioxidant ingredients).
The most common treatments for age spots include bleaching ingredients like hydroquinone, but it is important to remember that these ingredients are not safe on all skin types and a lot of them react adversely with sun exposure. With the South African climate, this is a huge factor to consider. It is far safer to use non-bleaching ingredients that control the tyrosinase activity in the skin while distributing the melanin evenly. (Tyrosinase: an enzyme that controls melanogenesis)
DERMAPLEX ANTI DARK FIX AND FADE is ideal for all skin types, it is non-bleaching, and does not react with sun exposure, the main active Hexyresorcinol is four times more effective than hydroquinone. Please see the attached Information.
- Retinol is a tried and tested ingredient. It is common knowledge that retinol is successful in treating several skin conditions including pigmentation, but once again depending on the skin type and current condition many skins react aggressively or adversely to retinol.
There are also many different forms of retinol, it is important to understand these.
RETINYL PALMITATE: most commonly used, yet least active form.
RETINALDEHYDE: only slightly more potent than retinyl palmitate.
PURE RETINOL: a strongest nonprescription form of retinol
TRETINOIN: Potent form, only on prescription due to the aggressive side effects.
TAZAROTENE: also potent, prescription-only form, due to adverse side effects.
AESTHET RETINOL CREAM is designed using pure retinol at the highest percent available, the slow release technology gives the best results. Most importantly, it is safe for all skin types as it does not cause a retinizing reaction. ( aggressive dryness, irritation, and sensitivity).Please see the attached.
When looking at a treatment plan for pigmentation the cliche “prevention is better than the cure” always comes to mind. It is hugely important to encourage patients to use and reapply sunscreen. DNA EPINEW SPF30 is an ideal nongreasy, moisturizing sunscreen. When it comes to replying sunscreen most patients do not, as they do not want to “mess up” their makeup, or find it inconvenient to apply a cream throughout the day. DNA EPINEW SPF50 is ideal for these patients, as it is an aerosol spray and will not ruin makeup and is convenient to apply.
In practice, treatments should always be considered, but bear in mind when working with pigmentation it is advised to stick to safe treatments like gentle chemical peels, and mesoskin techniques. AESTHET EXPERT CHEMICAL PEEL is safe for all skin types to focus on pigmentation. Please see the attached information.
By combining these 3 steps Age spots will be easily and effectively treated.
PREVENT: sunscreen (DNA EPINEW SPF 30 OR 50)
CONTROL: DERMAPLEX ANTI DARK, DNA EPINEW SKIN TONE CORRECTOR
RESURFACE: AESTHET RETINOL CREAM